60 ounces of prime Aussie wagyu

This article first appeared in the Mar/Apr 2011 issue of World Gaming magazine.

The Panda saddles up for a massive steak at Copa at the Sands.

Copa, on the third level of the Sands Casino, is an old fashioned steak house with a modern upmarket atmosphere. You won’t find the traditional wooden tables and deer antlers hanging off the wall here. The décor is immaculately clean and an open kitchen creates a comfortable setting, perfect for a romantic night or a casual business dinner.

I love steak. What bear in his right mind wouldn’t? It’s not an everyday craving, but sometimes I have an itch that can only be scratched by a generous lump of red meat. To the vegetarians out there you can eat all the tofu, bamboo shoots and bean sprouts you want but don’t ever stop me from having a little indulgence once in a while.

The menu at Copa is quite extensive and there is something for everyone. I have dined here on numerous occasions and despite generally being an adventurous panda I order the same dishes here every time, because it’s so good.

The ‘Copa Five’ appetiser is the perfect starter. It’s not the cheapest dish in town but it is worth every cent of the MOP$190 price tag. An appetiser degustation, the dish has five different but perfectly presented mouthfuls served on one long plate. It is so difficult to choose which order to eat them in. My personal favourite is the tuna tartare which is fresh, crisp and perfectly seasoned. There is a beef and kimchi morsel which would make any Korean chef go mad with jealousy and a soft-shell crab on avocado to delight seafood buffs.

No matter how good the appetiser, the real proof of any steak house is the steak. A vast range of different cuts is on offer and there are excellent lamb and fish options for those who don’t understand what is meant by a steak house. Copa is famous for its ’60 ounce Australian Cowboy Wagyu’ – one hell of a chunk of meat. If you’re feeling particularly gluttonous and can eat the whole thing in one hour you will enjoy it for free but personally I would rather take my time and enjoy it.

The chef will butterfly your steak, which will comfortably feed three hungry boys. People who normally order their steak ‘well done’ shouldn’t waste their time or money on this piece of meat. I can imagine the chef in tears if he is ever forced to undertake this heinous culinary crime. I prefer mine medium-rare and it is always cooked to perfection at Copa.

So the big question is just how good is this steak? This is literally the best steak I have ever eaten and I have been to some of the best steak houses in the world. The steak is a little over MOP$1,500 (around the US$200 mark) but considering it feeds between two and five appetites it is very well priced. Good quality Wagyu is all about the marbling of the meat and the skill of the chef in melting the fat through the meat. When it is done well it should be juicy, tasty and you should be able to carve it with a butter knife. This monster of a steak ticks all the boxes.

I always say a good steak is highlighted by a few decent sides, so I suggest you order a few extras in addition to the baked potato you already receive. The asparagus has a crunchy texture as it should, and comes with a light hollandaise sauce. The mixed mushrooms and creamed spinach are also a must. Onion rings aren’t my cup of tea but I have been told they are great here as well. You can order a béarnaise, mushroom or black pepper sauce to go with your steak and there is a large range of mustards and relishes on offer too. For me I need nothing other than a few shakes of salt and pepper and some vegetables to go with this splendid steak.

I have been tempted by the dessert course, but by the time I have had two courses, a couple of cold beers, shared a few bottles of good red and an 18 year-old McCallum’s on the rocks I have usually reached my limit. The wine list has a large enough range to cater to any budget and the service is attentive and helpful.

In later issues of World Gaming I’ll be reviewing a few of the other steak houses around Macau but they will have to be on top of their game to reach the lofty heights of Copa.